How to Strip Paint Paint Ceiling Wall Paint Remover Chemical Formula

This article is about How to Strip Paint , Paint a Ceiling or a Wall , paint remover chemical formula.

 

How to strip paint

 You will need :

– Dust or polythene sheet

– Goggles, gloves and protective overalls

– Chemical stripper or heat gun – Scraper

– Curved scraper or steel wool

– Shavehook

– Old paintbrush

– White spirit or bucket of warm water

When overhauling your decor, it’s not just the walls that need attention,your woodwork needs to be prepared and painted to complete the look. When wallpapering your walls, you wouldn’t dream of applying new wallpaper on top of your old covering, the same applies when painting woodwork like skirting boards, handrails, panelling or doors.

Strip your woodwork, just as you’d strip your walls, for a perfect result. Paint can be sanded away but the easiest and fastest method is to use a heat gun or chemical stripper. Before you begin however make sure you protect yourself and your surroundings. Cover flooring and furnishings with a dust sheet or polythene, and put on old clothes or protective overalls, goggles and gloves to protect yourself from the harsh chemical stripper.

Also, work in a well-ventilated area by opening all windows and switching off your central heating. If you’re choosing the traditional chemical stripper method, consider which type of chemical stripper suits you. These strippers come in liquid, spray, brushable or aerosol form, so it’s up to you which application method you prefer. The most common form is the liquid stripper, pour this into a small container before application and dab onto the woodwork with an old paintbrush. paint remover chemical formula .

The trick when using a chemical stripper and applying the solution for maximum absorption is to go with the grain, especially when it comes to removing paint from more ornate wooden features. It may help to have a damp cloth to hand to wipe away any spillages; the chemical can damage other furnishings and upholstery. You then need to give the stripper time to react with the paint; the reaction time varies from product to product so please consult the manufacturer’s instructions. After leaving the solution for the allotted time, test whether the paint comes away with a shavehook.

The paint should come loose using gentle scraping, if the paint doesn’t come away easily then leave the solution a little longer. Use a curved scraper or steel wool to remove paint from handrails, mouldings and staircase spindles.paint remover chemical formula .

Please note that steel wool should not be used on oak woodwork, the metal creates black stains on oak so use a nylon pad instead. After you have removed all the paint from your woodwork, apply warm water or white spirit to the wood to neutralise.paint remover chemical formula .

Leave to dry for 24 hours before you apply a fresh coat of paint. When removing paint or varnish from larger areas, like doors and panelling, it may help to use a heat gun. These are relatively cheap to buy (the average price is around £20) and are available from any good DIY store. Delicate areas however can be easily damaged by the prolonged heat from the heat gun.

Hold the gun a couple of inches away from the wood and scrap as you go from side to side. For a flawless result, use a shavehook to get into the nooks and crannies where paint loves to congregate. Are You Up Against Lead – based Painting ?

Lead-based paint isn’t used today but was particularly popular before the 1960’s, so if you have an older home, chances are you’re going to come across a lead-based alternative. Lead-based paint has to be treated a little differently –

buy a home testing kit and see whether your wood work is covered using lead-based paint. If it is then use the chemical stripping method to remove, not a heat gun. How to mix paint You will need – Range of paints in same finish (also known as ‘mixers’) – White paint (again in same finish as mixers)

In a world where everyone has to be different, your interior should be no exception. Creating a custom interior is a wonderful idea but not as easy as many people think… Before you go crazy and mix every colour you can get your hands on, buy some tester pots of paint, most DIY stores offer a full range of paints in these smaller quantities.

When choosing your paints, make sure you choose paints that have the same finish, i.e. matte, silk, emulsion or gloss. Also, if you have no clue of what colours you want to mix, refer to the colour theory, which consists of primary and secondary colours. Primary colours, like red, yellow and blue, can be combined to form a secondary colour.

The key to mixing paint and finding a colour that suits your taste is to experiment! Many budding decorators choose to throw the colour theory out of the window and just go for it. However, don’t throw caution to the wind completely; try to stick to mixing 2 to 3 colours or you may risk creating an unrefined custom colour.paint remover chemical formula .

If you do find that the colour you have created is too dark, have some white paint to hand (again of the same finish as the paints you are mixing) and add some to the mixture to lighten the tone. It’s important that throughout your experimentation phase you keep track of what colours you have mixed with what and how much of each colour you used to create your personalised shade.

Make up a few custom colours that you like before you test them out.Paint a few swatches of each onto your wall and allow to dry before standing back and picking your favourite. It’s surprising how different the paint will look out of the tin and on your wall. Once you are satisfied, make your chosen shade in a larger quantity, it may be impossible to replicate the exact shade that you created in the first instance but again play around with the shade until you are happy.

The golden rule is to make sure you have enough paint to create enough of your custom colour, there’s nothing worse than running out of paint when your room is only half decorated.paint remover chemical formula .

How to paint a ceiling

You will need

– Overalls and other protective gear

– Angled brush

– Your chosen paint

– Roller

– Tray

– Extension handle

You can’t just freshen up your decor by just painting the walls, go the whole hog and paint the ceilings as well. The ceiling should always be painted first, followed by the walls, then to finish the woodwork should be varnished or glossed. Generally you will need the same equipment for painting a ceiling that is used to paint the walls, but you can choose to invest in an extension handle which will extend the length of your roller.

Using an extension handle in the safer and more efficient alternative to painting your ceiling from a step ladder. The first stage of painting a ceiling is cutting in, create a border of paint (approximately 2 to 3 inches wide) so that you can roll without the danger of getting paint onto your cornices and the walls below.

Unlike painting a wall, which should be cut in and rolled wall by wall, you should cut in as you go when painting a ceiling. This will allow you to work with a wet edge whilst rolling larger areas to avoid a banding effect or ridges, which show up when the paint has dried. Start at one corner and cut in a small section and roll, working your way around the ceiling.

When it comes to rolling the larger areas, attach the extension handle and dip the roller into the tray, take extra care to distribute the paint evenly via rolling the roller onto the grate. Avoid overloading your roller, paint will not defy gravity and your overalls will get covered! Roll in parallel lines across your ceiling for a flawless effect when dry.

How to paint a wall

You will need

– Overalls and other protective gear

– Angled brush

– Your chosen paint

– Roller

– Tray

Painting is one of the most common home improvement projects taken on by DIY enthusiasts all year round. You don’t have to paint like a pro to be able to successfully paint a room, but it helps to have a few techniques up your sleeve to ensure a high quality finish, after all a poor paint job is easy to spot.

After you have prepared your room by protecting your furniture and smoothing walls (see page 3 to find out ‘how to prepare your walls’ and ‘how to protect your furniture’ on page 4), you can then begin by cutting in.

Ensure the room is well-ventilated before you commence. Cutting in is a well-known painting technique used by professionals and amateurs alike. Use an angled brush to cut around the edges of your skirting, corners and cornices, also cut around radiators and doorways. Dip your brush into the paint, covering a third of the bristles and tap off any excess paint (do not brush excess paint away).

Paint a band of 2 to 3 inches around all corners, skirting, cornices and fixtures, this will give you some breathing space when it comes to rolling. Once you have created a border, smooth any areas that are heavy in paint or any drips with the brush to achieve even coverage.

When painting, complete the room wall by wall, rolling on paint when the edges that you have cut in are wet will provide an even shade once dried. Protecting your skirting boards with masking tape isn’t always as effective as you think. For ultimate protection, protect your skirting with a paint shield, also known as a ‘George’.

This is held over the skirting board so you can paint freely above without the danger of dripping excess paint onto your woodwork.Next it is time to fill in the gaps by rolling paint onto the larger areas inside the border.

Fill the tray with paint, leaving half an inch before the grate, dip the roller into the tray and roll onto the grate to distribute the paint evenly across the roller. To distribute the paint further, roll a ‘W’ onto the wall and then start rolling paint vertically from ceiling to floor. Overlap with the edges where you have cut in to blend away brush marks and drips. Before applying your second coat, make sure you wait for the first coat to dry for the best results.

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