How To Remove Tiles fit Grout Tiles Cutting Replace broken tiles Fix a squeaky floorboard

How To Remove Tiles, fit , Grout Tiles , Cutting , Replace broken tiles , Fix a squeaky floorboard

How To Remove Tiles

You will need

– Dust sheet

– Dust mask

– Goggles

– Padded gloves

– Hammer

– Cold chisel (wide-bladed)

– Heavy duty refuse bag

– Scraper

– Plaster filler

To transform the look of your kitchen or bathroom it’s more than likely that youare going to have to remove a few old tiles. After all tiles are one item of home decor that is difficult to change the look of without removal.

Prepare your room by removing as many items as you can and covering all work surfaces or sanitaryware with a dust sheet. It may be worth doubling up on dust sheet protection as small bits of tiles will be ground into the sheets and can often make their way to your floor, where they can cause considerable damage.

Remove Tiles

Put on a dust mask, goggles and padded gloves before you begin to protect your eyes and hands during work and prevent inhalation of dust and debris. Use a hammer and cold chisel to remove tiles along the grout line. Hammer in the chisel underneath the tiles and lever to remove.

Work your way around the room and collect all debris as you go to prevent damage to your floors and work surfaces, dispose of in a heavy duty refuse bag. Next scrape off any grout or adhesive that remains underneath the tiles, most will be loosened during tile removal. Use a scraper or cold chisel to remove grout and adhesive.

If the plaster underneath becomes loose, then just chip it away and fill in with plaster filler later. If you have a stud wall, it may be easier to remove the entire plasterboard panel, adding new panels during redecoration.

How to fit tiles

You will need

– Plaster filler

– Plaster stabilising solution (for powdery surfaces)

– Tape measure

– Pencil

– Plumb line

– Timber batten

– Waterproof adhesive

– Grout spreader

– Spirit level

– Tile spacers

– Tile cutting jig or freehand cutter

– And Tile saw

Tiling doesn’t need to be left to the professionals, with the right know-how you can take tiling in your stride. As with any decorating, the perfect finish begins with the perfect start so ensure you prep your surfaces before you commence work. Any large holes should be repaired using plaster filler, allow to dry before you begin tiling.

If the surface dries unstably and powdery, apply a plaster stabilising solution which will steady the surface for when you add your adhesive and tiles. Now comes the fun part – plan where your tiles will lie with the timber batten, plumb line and tape measure.

Use the batten as a guide to mark horizontal lines on the wall, move up the wall, leaving a tile width as you go. If you arrive at the top of the wall and have a small strip left to cover, simply move the bottom row up and position the narrow strip at the bottom for a neater finish. Now attach the batten to the first line, this can be used to position your tiles on top so they can be attached in a straight line.

Cutting Tiles

Not every room is perfectly square, especially with the amount of fitted furniture and appliances in the way, which makes sure tiling is always a challenge. Don’t be defeated by oddly shaped rooms and protruding pipes, tiles can be cut to your specification to cater to any space. The glazed surfaces found on hard ceramic tiles needs to be scored with a cutting jig or freehand cutter, which allows the tile to be broken.

To fit tiles around more awkward shapes, use a tile saw to cut the tile to fit around fixtures and fittings. Add your adhesive using the notched end of your spreader, this will create a ribbed effect whilst spreading for extra adhesion. Work with a square metre at a time so that the adhesive does not dry out.

Now start tiling; press the tiles onto the adhesive using the batten as a guide for your first row, use the spirit level to ensure that the tiles are flat and their surfaces are in line with each other. Use tile spacers for a professional finish, these are positioned between the tiles as you go to ensure you leave an even gap in between each tile. Leave to dry before you remove the timber batten guide and start to grout.

How to grout tiles

You will need

– Sponge

– Bucket of clean water

– Scraper

– Pliers

– Grout

– Grout spreader

– Cloth

-Waterproof sealer

For a professional and completely waterproof finish, you must grout your tiles once they are in place. Once the adhesive is completely dry, use a damp sponge and clean water to remove any excess adhesive that may have made its way to the tile surface. Use a scraper to get rid of tougher, dried on adhesive.

Next use pliers to remove the tile spacers from the corner of each tile. Apply the grout using the grout spreader, spread on the grout diagonally, forcing the grout in between the tiles as you go. Work with a square metre at a time so you can ensure that the grout does not dry too much to the surface of the tile.

Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsing regularly with clean water. Once the grout and tile surface has fully dried (read the manufacturer’s instructions of your grout product for drying times), polish with a cloth for a pristine finish. Don’t forget to seal the gap between your bottom row of tiles and the work surface, bath or sink with a waterproof sealant.

How to replace broken tiles

You will need

– Goggles

– Carbide

-tipped scoring tool

– Painter’s tape

– Drill with ceramic bit

– Hammer

– Cold chisel

– Wide

-bladed chisel

– Adhesive

– Grout spreader

– Sponge

– Bucket of clean water

– Grout

– Cloth

Broken floor or wall tiles can ruin the entire look of a tiled room, but damage that can be easily caused can be amended just as quickly without having to replace the entire set of tiles. All you need is a steady hand and the equipment shown above. Put on your goggles to protect your eyes from flying debris and dust, now use the carbide-tipped scoring tool to chip away at the grout surrounding the broken tile.

Be careful not to slip and damage any neighbouring tiles. Once the grout has been removed from around the tile, apply painter’s tape on the edge of the grout line, this will prevent surrounding tiles from getting chipped whilst you are removing the damaged tile. Next drill a hole into each section of broken tile, this will loosen the adhesive below slightly and make it much easier to remove.

Take your hammer

Take your hammer and cold chisel, and work from the centre outwards to remove the broken tile sections. Gently tap away at the tile until it becomes loose. Once all the tile has been removed, use the wide-bladed chisel to remove the adhesive underneath, again be careful not to damage surrounding tiles as dried on adhesive can be tough to remove. Ensure that the surface is even and all adhesive has been removed before you place the new tile.

Take your new tile and use the notched end of the grout spreader to comb adhesive onto the back and into the vacant space on your floor or wall. Place the tile into the space and press down firmly. Continue to apply pressure until the new tile is level with all the surrounding tiles. Once it is level, adjust the tile’s positioning to produce even spacing on each side of the tile. When the adhesive is dry, use the sponge, which should be dampened with clean water, to wipe away any excess adhesive.

Grout around as normal and finish with a wipe of a damp sponge and polish with a dry cloth. If you are replacing a floor tile, make sure you don’t stand on the tile for at least 24 hours to allow it to dry properly and position without pressure.

How to fix a squeaky floorboard

You will need

– Talc

– Pencil

– Drill and drill bit

– Screwdriver

– Screws (60mm)

– Cold chisel

– Hammer

– Timber batten

There is nothing more traumatic and annoying then noticing a squeaky floorboard, but unbeknown to many this problem can be fixed easily and hours of wincing at the noise a loose floorboard creates can be averted in an instant.

So why do we get squeaky floorboards? Over time floorboards swell due to the heat and moisture in the room, the board becomes distorted and expands causing the edges of the boards to collide and rub together to create a squeaking noise. Other squeaks are caused by loose boards and unsupported board ends.

Before you reach for the tools, you may be able to solve your creaky problem without even touching a drill, screwdriver or cold chisel. Firstly however, you must do some detective work and track down which floor board is the creaky culprit. Lift and remove the floor covering in the room and simply walk the boards to see if you can hear the squeak, walk in various directions to test the boards completely.

Squeaky floorboard

If you have more than one squeaky floorboard, carry a pencil with you and mark each board that creaks. Some squeaking boards can be remedied with a simple household product like talc. Sprinkle the board with talc, paying particular attention to the edges of the board. The talc reduces friction and could prevent minor squeaks. If the noise persists however, the squeak may be coming from a little deeper. Many creaks are caused by joists that support the boards becoming loose.

These must be tightened to prevent creaks; drill holes into the end of the board and fix in the 60mm screws, the holes must be drilled first to prevent the wood from splitting. If the board isn’t supported by any joists, then it may be worth adding some to stop squeaky boards and to reinforce the board’s strength.

Lift the board with a wide-bladed cold chisel and hammer, cut your own joist from the timber batten and place underneath to support the board ends. Lay the board on top, noting the position of the joists and fix, again using the 60mm screws.

How to fix a squeaky step

If you can get underneath your wooden staircase, then fixing a creaking step is an easy job. Fashion a wooden wedge and screw this into either end and in the middle of the joint where the step and side of the stair meet. Use a strong, high quality wood for the ultimate support.

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